Working with a Photographer on your Portfolio Development or Portrait Session
I started my life as a photographer, but also tried my chops at modeling to see what life was like on the other side of the camera. I went through the portfolio development process, worked as an extra, stand-in, and occasionally as a model. It was an eye-opening experience that ultimately helped me to become a better portrait and fashion photographer. I learned a lot of lessons the hard way—I will attempt to spare you the same, but keep in mind every person’s experience may differ.
I found the modeling experience well-worthwhile in learning what those I photograph can expect. I will share what I have learned personally and professionally from my experience photographing practiced, professional, and novice models.
The information in this article can be helpful for a variety of people including those wanting fashion-y portraits, senior portraits, professional portraits, and of course, model-hopefuls.
Research Fashion, Practice, Practice, Practice and then Bring It
The best photographic results come from a seasoned, creative, working model who knows their photographic angles, poses and facial expressions by muscle memory. The next best results come from a well-practiced, and devoted model-hopeful—the operative words here are “well-practiced.”
First, look at magazines in your field of interest to see what other models facial expressions and body postures look like—this will give you some ideas of what types of images the editors have selected from the myriad of shots taken for that particular spread in their publication. Current magazines will show you what the top talents in your field-of-interest are doing.
Second, experiment with which looks work best for your angles and features and practice them. While I, as your photographer, can provide some guidance, I encourage model-hopefuls to practice a variety of looks and flattering angles in a mirror well in advance of the photo session. This is actually important for portrait and senior portrait clients as well.
When you feel ready, schedule the photo session and come prepared to maximize your investment. Practice, and lots of it, can create confidence and remove a lot of one’s unexpected fear from a situation most aren’t faced with very often—being professionally photographed.
Having someone’s attention intensively focused on you as the subject of a photograph can often be uncomfortable—especially since the photographer’s eye is behind the lens (no eye contact.) This discomfort can be made even worse if you are in-studio with a bunch of strobe lights pointed at you. Many novice models have a “deer in the headlights look” when they were expecting to be fully comfortable in front of the camera.
The photographer make suggestions, but if you don’t know how your face or body feel in a certain poses, then its that much harder to strike them successfully and move fluidly between shots. Some of this body-kinesthetic knowledge will only come from experience and feedback from photographers, but one can make an excellent start using the aforementioned practice in a mirror. Knowing your body and face well can also make it easier for the photographer to guide you toward new and interesting poses you might not have practiced.
At this starting point in your career, while you may not be experienced in front of the camera, you certainly can be well-practiced. Concentrated practice before the shoot will do wonders for your confidence and can make the shot success rate go way up. Then, once you have had your first photo shoot, you will be that much clearer on your comfort working as a model while the photographer follows your movements with a camera.
I have photographed many unprepared models—even experienced professionals. The ones that I hired back were the ones who made my work more fun by being energetic, professional, genuine, cordial, and most of all—prepared. Photographers love their work—any model that makes their work drudgery is unlikely to be hired in the future.
The Photographer/Model Relationship
Even though you are paying photographers during portfolio development, you need to treat them as if they are your clients—it is possible that the photographer you hire for portfolio development photographs will have other friends or clients for whom you may be the perfect fit. If you want to be top-of-mind when such an opportunity arises, then treat every session professionally. Photographers often have a lot of say in who is hired and who is photographed. For example, when I was a staff photographer for a catalog retailer, I was often the only person, or one of a small group of people, making the model hiring decisions.
Testing—See if you are Photogenic First
Model-esque features are rarely enough to make one into a model. The camera has to love you—and you might be surprised who the camera loves and who it doesn’t.
The most beautiful person in the three-dimensional world may not be photogenic. The camera in the hands of a knowledgeable professional is a tool that translates the three-dimensional world into two-dimensions—which is unkind to some people and complimentary to others. Great photographers can find those best angles—skill and knowledge of the photographer dictates a lot of this, but there are elements that are out of the photographer’s control and at the mercy of optical physics.
If you haven’t been professionally photographed by a fashion photographer, it is recommended that you start out with a Model Test Session to determine if you are photogenic and comfortable being in front of the camera (see my price list on my website, or if for some reason its not there, then email me.) Comfort in front of the camera can be learned over time and will often happen naturally during portfolio development.
Preliminary testing is a way to discover if one is photogenic without blowing a bunch of money on creating a portfolio of images when this may not be a good career fit. Once one has a good headshot and full-length photograph, send them to some reputable modeling agencies. If modeling is a good fit, then one can continue to invest more money in portfolio development. If it’s not a good fit, then one at least has some nice photos of oneself, created for a minimal investment.
Self-confidence and Modeling
Emotions in general, including self-confidence, translate readily to the two-dimensions of a photograph—this is part of the reason images with people can have so much power and communicate beyond their subject matter. This is also the reason self-confidence is important for modeling.
Everyone has some level of insecurity, but in modeling, one needs to be confident in who they are as a person. This doesn’t mean one should be narcissistic, rude, or aloof. The best qualities in any person, in my opinion, are an ego-less self-confidence and genuine kindness.
Modeling is an industry where it is easy to internalize criticism. Learn to deal with criticism constructively. One will get a lot of unsolicited feedback—listen without judgment, learn something from it, and move forward from that point. In every experience lies some type of lesson and an opportunity for growth.
Photographic Submissions for Modeling Agencies
Most modeling agencies want to see professional photographs of you prior to agreeing to represent you. Snapshots are sometimes OK, but they’re rarely truly flattering nor provide a good representation of the model’s full potential under professional photography circumstances.
Even though agencies will sometimes accept family photos and holiday snaps, it can put you at a disadvantage against your competition. Reputable agencies receive thousands of photos and some, tens of thousands. It’s best to submit something professional to increase your chance making it through the screening process and on to potential representation. Many agencies only accept resubmissions every six months, so make your first submission memorable. Check the individual agency websites to see their specific submission requirements. Often, you will be asked to provide some personal information such as height, weight, eye color, etc.
Do your research, though, to make sure you are comfortable with the agency with which you are signing—especially if they want you to sign an exclusive contract. The best research comes from talking with many other professional working models in your local market and taking an average of their opinions about which agencies are best.
Types of Modeling
There are as many ways to make money as a model as there are products and services being advertised. There are jobs for a wide variety, shape, and size of models in catalogs, commercials, and beyond. There are product models, fashion models, face models, hand models, and athletic models—the list is as long as is the variety of products offered and advertisers’ needs. You may dream of making a living in any one of these fields—and one can potentially make an honest living in all of them. The variety of those who model is equal to the diversity of the planets inhabitants itself.
Being charismatic, self-confident, professional and photogenic are very important factors in becoming a successful model, in my humble opinion. Success can be at a local level or at an international level-it all depends on what the best market fit for one’s particular look becomes.
Two areas of my specialization, namely fashion and lifestyle imagery, still have height requirements while many other requirements have changed. It seems that 5’9” is often the cut-off for working fashion and commercial models. Everyone of course knows there are exceptions to this rule, but they are very, very, rare indeed. I have worked with only two professional models whose height was below this mark. Television and video have different requirements.
Money, Money, Money—Developing your First Portfolio
Like any business, professional modeling requires an upfront investment. Expect to pay the photographer to photograph you and expect to pay some model agencies to be listed in their print books especially when you are just starting out. Some agencies have moved away from print books to online directories.
It is the rare model that doesn’t pay for most, if not all of their first professional portfolio photographs—a very rare model indeed—think supermodel rare. While you might be the next supermodel, don’t expect experienced photographers to shoot your portfolio images for free if you are not already well established —and even then it is often only if the photographer approaches you first.
If a photographer approaches you, be flattered, but keep it in perspective if they are not a working professional. Some photographers build-up their book (portfolio) by shooting models for free when they are just starting out. This means one becomes the amateur photographer’s guinea pig, so the results can sometimes be less than spectacular with a shot success rate that’s very low. If an established professional wants to photograph you, then you might give it more credence. A good screening device is to ask to see the photographer’s fashion, portrait, or model portfolio. If you like what you see, then hire them.
When developing one’s first portfolio, be prepared to shoot with at least 3-5 different established photographers. Agencies like to see a variety of images in a portfolio that show diversity of angles, themes, and looks, so choose looks wisely with an eye toward one’s market of interest. Be open to all reputable jobs in the beginning—building a work resume is important in the beginning.
Modeling Schools
My personal opinion is that one shouldn’t pay for model training or modeling school—I have seen the results—while there are always exceptions, in my opinion and experience the results of model school attendance often do more harm than good.
Modeling is very specific to the model. It’s dynamic and subject to current trends. It changes faster than a school can teach it and is more a function of personal creativity, practice, and experience in front of the camera.
The Established Model
Once you are well established as a model, then the money outlays change a bit. An established model has the option of using “tear-sheets,” or prints/duplicates of the work they have actually performed for a client. A model for a perfume advertisement might ask the client and photographer if she/he can use one of the images in her/his portfolio (generally only allowed once the advertising campaign starts running or has finished its run.) Even professional models, however may choose to do some contract photography with a favorite photographer to enhance an area of their portfolio that might be lacking.
If you have modeling experience, you may want to refresh or expand your portfolio every six months to a year by shooting with a professional fashion photographer. If you like a particular photographer’s style or want to work in an industry the photographer is known for shooting, then contact them for a session. You can expand the look of your portfolio and maybe work into a new industry specialization or niche.
For some models in some industries, new photos will be necessary when their look changes dramatically. Shooting with a variety of photographers means that your book will show diversity in style and that you can work with a range of different professionals. It also keeps your book fresh—showing agencies and prospective clients that you are serious about modeling. If an agency offers a print book or online directory, they may request a new images from you, often once per year.
The final tip is to be gracious and thankful to all you meet and to those who help you. Be thankful for all successes, no matter how small. Leave your ego out of all interactions. It will make a world of difference by reducing work for everyone involved. You may be a model, but you are also a salesperson, and ultimately a person.
Disclaimer: The tips in this article are the opinions of Aaron Fahrmann Photography and in no way are to be construed as a guarantee of any model’s personal, financial, or business success. The information in this article is provided without any warrantees or guarantees whatsoever.
